Wall tiling, particularly in places that are prone to getting dirty (kitchen splash backs) and wet (shower walls) is often a necessary decorating step to follow. But it doesn’t have to be all about function, this is a great opportunity to get creative with tiling a wall.
You can tile a wall easily by yourself, you just need to ensure you have the right tools, have measured the space correctly and follow a few simple steps. In this guide, we take you through how to tile a wall.
THE TOOLS YOU'LL NEED FOR TILING A WALL
- Manual Tile Cutter
- Electric Tile Cutter
- Notched Trowel
- Tape Measure
- Bucket Trowel
- Spirit Level
- Caulking Gun
- Sponge
- Grout Float
- Timber Batten/ Nails
- Tile Spacers
- Mixing Bucket
- Tile File
- Hammer
- Safety Wear
1. CALCULATING THE NUMBER OF TILES
How do you know how many tiles you’ll need when tiling a wall?
Measure the height and width of each area you are going to tile with a tape measure, times the two sizes together and you will get the number of square meters you will need. For irregular shaped rooms, divide the area up into different segments to work out individually, and then add together. Measure any doors, windows or obstructions and take the size away from the total. Remember to allow for an extra 10% for any breakages, cuts and wastage. If you are tiling in a herringbone pattern then 10-15% is advised.
If you are unsure just take your measurements (height and width) of each wall you are tiling into your local store who will be happy to help and give any advice you may need for your project. Alternatively try our online tile calculator.
2. HOW DO I PREPARE THE WALLS I’M TILING ONTO?
Read our guides on correctly preparing different substrates to ensure maximum efficiency
3. MEASURING YOUR TILES
What is a gauge rod and why do I need one?
Before tiling, we need to know how many tiles are to be fitted per row and to do this, we make a gauge rod. Created from a timber batten, this rod will help you work out the best position of the tiles and ensure that you don’t have to cut very thin strips of tile for the edges. This is also very useful for when tiling around windows and doors.
Lay the length of timber on a flat surface
Place a tile on the length of timber, flush with the timber edge
Mark the timber at the edge of the tile
Ensure that the ‘marks’ are square
Position the spacer at the edge of the tile and place a second tile against the spacer, again marking the timber at the edge of the tile
Repeat the procedure until the end of timber is reached. This batten is now your gauge rod
4. HOW TO TILE A WHOLE WALL
Wherever possible, all furniture, basins etc. should be removed prior to tiling, in order to obtain the best possible finish.
As a general guide, consider the natural focal point of the area to be tiled, and plan the tile layout and the starting point with this in mind. Planning the tiling in this way means the pattern will be centralised, resulting in a neat and attractive finish.
Find the centre of your window, ceiling or floor and mark a pencil line. Using the gauge rod, measure from the half way point or centre of the window, down and up so you can see where each tile will fall. Your outside tiles should be approximately the same size so you may need to reposition your central vertical line to get the right position. This will ensure that you don’t have to cut very thin strips of tile for the edges.
Once you work down the wall to where the bottom tile is less than about half a tile, re-arrange slightly by raising the batten to half a tile and mark the wall once you are happy using a spirit level. Draw a straight line across the wall.
Before nailing into the wall check along the lines for pipes and cables. To do this, use a stud detector (also known as a multi-purpose digital detector). If there are pipes or cables in the way, adjust the starting point slightly. Once checked, get a piece of timber baton and nail onto the wall, but don’t hammer in fully as you will have to take the timber off later. Use this piece of timber as the starting point to tile up from. This will prevent the tiles from moving and ensure your tiling is nice and straight.
Mark out with the rod again but this time vertically and hammer in another piece of timber up the wall making a right angle with the timber pieces or, if preferred, you can work from a vertical pencil line.
From this point, you can start tiling, however you may need to cut some tiles to size which we recommend doing before applying any adhesive.
5. CUTTING YOUR TILES
A manual cutter can be used for straight cuts whilst an electric cutter is best suited for right angles, curved edges and thicker tiles such as porcelain and natural stone. See here our basic guide for cutting tiles.
6. APPLYING THE ADHESIVE
The next step is to apply your adhesive, read our quick adhesive FAQ to ensure you’re using the right one, we also give you tips on how best to apply it to your walls.
7. GROUTING THE TILES
The final step (before cleaning) is to grout your tiles to protect them from moisture. Read our full grouting guide before you get started.
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